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#bespoke

  • Jefferey Diduch, pre-eminent expert in bespoke apparel construction dissects a jacket made by the renowned Italian tailor, A. Caraceni.


Written by: Jefferey DiduchMade By Hand

It finally came!!

SF member Vaux le Vicompte kindly donated our latest specimen, a DB he had made by A. Caraceni in Milan- you can see images from some of his sartorial adventures at his lovely blog here- legrimod.blogspot.com. (merci, Monsieur le Vicompte!) The following is excerpted from Wikipedia;
Caraceni was founded in Rome in 1913 by the father of Italian tailoring, Domenico Caraceni. At one point in the 1930s, Domenico and his family operated ateliers in Rome, Milan and Paris. The Paris atelier was operated by Domenico's brother, Augusto, who closed his atelier when Mussolini declared war on France.

Today, there are several businesses going by the name "Caraceni" in operation. The original shop operates out of a small location in Rome with a very small workforce. This is run by Tommy and Giulio Caraceni, nephews of Domenico. There are three branches in Milan, all founded by offshoots of the clan, one even claiming to be the "real Caraceni." However, the cognoscenti consider A. Caraceni, currently operated by Mario Caraceni (son of Augusto) to be the best of the Milan branches. These suits are what is known as "bench bespoke," meaning they are made one at a time, by hand, to a pattern specifically drawn for each individual customer. The various Caraceni "sartorias" have crafted handmade suits for various celebrities over the years, including Tyrone Power, Humphrey Bogart, Gary Cooper, Cary Grant, Yves Saint Laurent, Gianni Agnelli, Sophia Loren and fashion designer Valentino Garavani. The Caraceni label is also famous for dressing generations of The Kings of Greece and Italy, The Prince of Wales, Prince Rainier of Monaco, Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi and Aristotle Onassis.

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  • Michael Alden, founder of The London Lounge - shares his humour and wisdom when first entering the world of bespoke. Spoiler: start with the shirt.


Written by: Michael AldenFounder of The London Lounge + The London Lounge Cloth Club 

Oscar Wilde has one of his more earnest characters remark that "a well tied tie is the first serious step in life." 

That may well be, but the first serious step in bespoke tailoring is a well cut shirt. How often do I see men with no cuff showing or sheets of it in view casting accusatory glances at their innocent tailors when the cut of the shirt is at fault and neither the coat nor its maker? And what is to be said about men who wear off the rack shirts that do not fit and wonder why their fine bespoke jacket is wrinkled and untidy? Or into what infernal bolgia will be cast the man who wants a tailor to cut a coat to fit all of his shirts when all of his shirts are all over the globe in terms of measures, fit and sleeve length?

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  • Peter Chong introduces the uninitiated the finer points of what makes a bespoke suit--covering the differences between ready-to-wear, made-to-measure, and true bespoke.
  • Peter is a well-known evangelist of the sartorial arts, and is also one of the world's most respected watch collectors.


Written by: Peter ChongFounder of Deployant  + Columnist for Luxury Insider + Head of A. Lange & Sohne forum on TimeZone.com
Photography by: Dominic Khoo
Originally published by: Luxury Insider


What makes a bespoke Suit

The term 'bespoke' - derived from the word 'bespeak', refers to the act of the customer speaking for a bolt of cloth (i.e. the cloth is now 'spoken for') and specifying his requirements to his cutter. Everything can be specified. This is a dialogue between the customer and his cutter, and ensures that the suit is made to fit the individual and not the other way round.A bespoke suit is to be contrasted with Ready to Wear, and Made to Measure suits, and a brief description of the latter two will be given by way of comparison.

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Dec 16 2016
elicierto noted

Sam Hober Grenadine Fina Tie

Sam Hober uses Fermo Fossati & Bianchi grenadine silk to make elegant bespoke / custom made ties and pocket squares in our workshop the old-fashioned way; very slowly, by hand, one by one. With a great deal of attention paid to elegant sewing. The level of detail that we put into our ties is not something that you will find anywhere else.
Sam Hober Grenadine Fina Tie
Dec 07 2016
EnglanderLine noted

Bespoke Sofas

Luxury Handmade French Sofas - Leather Sofas UK
Bespoke Sofas
Sep 16 2015
Oct 25 2014
Knightsbridge noted

Bespoke Roorkhee Chair

The Chatwin lounge chair, based on one of the most functional and timeless designs was the starting point of the collection. Often referred to as the Safari or British Officers' chair, it was originally designed by the Indian Army Corp of Engineers for the British Army in the 1890?s. The chair, like its classic predecessor can be broken down to all of its components.
Bespoke Roorkhee Chair
Sep 20 2014
Sawyer noted

Bespoke Roorkhee Chair

The Chatwin lounge chair, based on one of the most functional and timeless designs was the starting point of the collection. Often referred to as the Safari or British Officers' chair, it was originally designed by the Indian Army Corp of Engineers for the British Army in the 1890?s. The chair, like its classic predecessor can be broken down to all of its components.
Bespoke Roorkhee Chair
Aug 05 2014
elicierto noted

Black Oyster Chandelier

The matt-black steel ceiling tray disappears in the black ceiling, allowing the disks to look strong but understated.
Black Oyster Chandelier
Jul 05 2014
elicierto noted

Cardiff folding stool

The Cardiff stool can be ordered to specific dimensions, woods, leathers, and finishes.
Cardiff folding stool
Feb 27 2014
Knightsbridge noted

Ambrosi Napoli

Ambrosi trousers are fully bespoke. Choice of fabric and measurements are noted on the first day of consultation. He then returns to Napoli where he cuts the fabric personally, ensuring every pair reflects his signature style.

Ambrosi Napoli is well known for being the best bespoke trouser maker in the world.
Ambrosi Napoli
Feb 08 2014
Charlie noted

Bespoke Roorkhee Chair

The Chatwin lounge chair, based on one of the most functional and timeless designs was the starting point of the collection. Often referred to as the Safari or British Officers' chair, it was originally designed by the Indian Army Corp of Engineers for the British Army in the 1890?s. The chair, like its classic predecessor can be broken down to all of its components.
Bespoke Roorkhee Chair
Feb 07 2014
elicierto noted

Chiaia Napoli

Neapolitan bespoke tailors per fissare un appuntamento : +39 320 93 07 549
Chiaia Napoli
Feb 07 2014
Charlie noted

French Classic Bathtub

Much deeper than the equivalent English version, this traditional antique single-ended French bath stands on four pretty cast-iron feet. Simple and classic.
French Classic Bathtub
Jan 30 2014
Wodehouse noted

Budd Shirtmakers

All of our bespoke shirts are cut at our Mayfair cutting room, located above the shop.
Budd Shirtmakers
Jan 28 2014
Charlie noted

Wyeth Bookcase

Materials shown: solid oiled walnut ladder stands with solid edged veneer shelves. Top three shelves are supported with stainless steel to prevent bowing. Custom options: - dimensions, wood, and finish - solid wood shelves with natural edges - shelves with leather inlay
Wyeth Bookcase
Dec 05 2013
elicierto noted

Gentlemen of the old cloth

Vintage fabrics have long put steam in Nick Foulkes' strides. Now more men are raiding their tailors' stockrooms for heavyweight sartorial gems from the eras of Cary Grant and Terence Stamp
Gentlemen of the old cloth
Nov 29 2013
elicierto noted

Underwood bespoke english furniture

For our clients this means that they are commissioning real furniture, hand built from prime timbers such as Ash, Oak, Walnut and Maple and combined with other luxurious materials including marble, granite, glass and metal.
Underwood bespoke english furniture
Nov 07 2013
elicierto noted

Bathroom by Salvio Firmino

Florentine firm specializing in highly crafted furniture utilizing restoration techniques from the early renaissance.
Bathroom by Salvio Firmino
Oct 25 2013
elicierto noted

Hayburn & Co.

Outstanding architectural joinery, luxury kitchens and fitted furniture for the finest homes across the UK, Ireland and beyond.
Hayburn & Co.
Oct 25 2013
elicierto noted

Rolf Sachs Desk

Constructed from layered panels of beautiful, almost untreated solid wood, the design doesn't feature any nails or screws.
Rolf Sachs Desk

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