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  • Jeffrey Hilliard from the Armoury writes a thorough primer on what to look for in identifying quality footwear: leather quality, construction, fit & style.


Written by: Jeffrey HilliardThe Armoury
In a sea of well dressed businessmen, it's often brutally apparent when good taste doesn't extend below the ankles. As the late George Frazier once stated, "Wanna know if a guy is well dressed? Look down." But as much as Frazier advocated that shoes make the man, some of us simply don't know how to spot quality in footwear. Although many resources attempt to highlight these features, most of them lack the detail needed to aid informed decisions.
There are three main areas you should focus on when evaluating fine dress footwear: leather quality, construction methods, and design and fit.

Think of leather like your skin. It is a hide and its quality can be most accurately discerned though the density of the fibers in the grain. Very simply put, the higher the density of the fibers, the more durable the leather. For our purposes, we can focus on the processes that produce the 4 main types of leather used for shoemaking - full grain, top grain, split grain, and bonded leather.

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Oct 03 2014
elicierto noted

Herring Scott

Featuring English oak bark leather soles tanned at Bakers of Devon, we believe that they are the best shoes we have ever produced.
Herring Scott
Oct 03 2014
elicierto noted

Loake Temple

Premium tassel loafer shoe, made in England.
- Goodyear Welted Leather Soles
- Fully Leather Lined
- Leather insoles
- Last Loafer / F fitting
Loake Temple
Jul 02 2014
Wodehouse noted

Rough Out Nubuck Boot

Nubuck leather is tough stuff. Our 'rough out' boot will serve you well in most terrain. Leather lining with Dainite® rubber sole. Goodyear welted construction for added water resistance. Hand crafted for Purdey in Northampton, England.
Rough Out Nubuck Boot
Mar 04 2014
Knightsbridge noted

Woolton Oxfords with Piped Square Toe

This elegant model features stitched beading on the top of the upper, turned-and-stitched detailing on the vamp, three edge finishes and a new rubber insert.
Woolton Oxfords with Piped Square Toe
Feb 06 2014
elicierto noted

Loafer 173 by J.M. Weston

A timeless classic with a retro feel: tassel loafers with hand-stitched apron and leather lace that accentuates their cut.
Loafer 173 by J.M. Weston
Jan 17 2014
elicierto noted

Herring Ascot II

The Ascot II is a reinvigorated version of our popular tassel loafer on a more generous last for a better fit. It has all the usual hallmarks of a quality Herring shoe: made in England, full leather lining, Goodyear Welted sole and an elegant last.
Herring Ascot II
Sep 22 2013
elicierto noted

Men's Rough Out Nubuck Twin Strap Boot

The twin-strap is a classic fieldsports boot that offers excellent protection from wind, rain and terrain. It also looks rather dapper with a pair of breeks. Leather lined with a sturdy Dainite® rubber sole. Goodyear welted construction for added water resistance. Hand crafted for Purdey in Northampton, England
Men's Rough Out Nubuck Twin Strap Boot

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