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  • Jeffrey Hilliard from the Armoury writes a thorough primer on what to look for in identifying quality footwear: leather quality, construction, fit & style.


Written by: Jeffrey HilliardThe Armoury
In a sea of well dressed businessmen, it's often brutally apparent when good taste doesn't extend below the ankles. As the late George Frazier once stated, "Wanna know if a guy is well dressed? Look down." But as much as Frazier advocated that shoes make the man, some of us simply don't know how to spot quality in footwear. Although many resources attempt to highlight these features, most of them lack the detail needed to aid informed decisions.
There are three main areas you should focus on when evaluating fine dress footwear: leather quality, construction methods, and design and fit.

Think of leather like your skin. It is a hide and its quality can be most accurately discerned though the density of the fibers in the grain. Very simply put, the higher the density of the fibers, the more durable the leather. For our purposes, we can focus on the processes that produce the 4 main types of leather used for shoemaking - full grain, top grain, split grain, and bonded leather.

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Jan 29 2016
Wodehouse noted

Jean Rousseau Classique Matte Alligator Watch Strap

The classique model strap features a slight taper, a modest height, and edge stitching. Perfect for a vintage or modern watch.
Jean Rousseau Classique Matte Alligator Watch Strap
Jan 08 2016
elicierto noted

Brooks Ergon GP1 Leather Grips

These grips are ergonomically designed for straight, swept and riser handlebars. Genuine, supple Brooks leather has been fused with an ergonomic rubber base for exceptional comfort and a delicate touch. Fastened by an aluminium handlebar end clasps, in satin silver or copper-coloured finish.

Available in brown, honey and black
Brooks Ergon GP1 Leather Grips
Sep 23 2015
Knightsbridge noted

The Morgan Driving Glove

A supremely well fitting glove, The Morgan is everything a good driving glove should be. Comfortable, soft and practical. Made from Capeskin water repellant leather with elasticated wrist and dome Fastener, available in many colour combinations of your choice.
The Morgan Driving Glove
Sep 03 2015
Charlie noted

St.Crispin's Two Eyelet Derby 655

A two eyelet derby in navy suede with white contrasting stitching by one of the world's smallest luxury shoe manufacturers, Saint Crispin's is renowned amongst shoe and fashion aficionados for their exquisite hand welted men's shoes.
St.Crispin's Two Eyelet Derby 655
Sep 29 2014
Ulysses noted

Leather Backpack

Most backpacks are aesthetically barren - designed solely with function in mind. We challenge that design tunnel vision with a fully leather backpack. With an interior that accommodates all the possessions of today's cycling commuter and a discrete zippered back pocket for one's valuables, the backpack borrows the best elements from our handmade briefcases. A zipper pocket in the back allows you to store valuables, laptops, and tablets right against your back. The double gusset construction gives extra space for travel, and a middle interior zipper compartment contains pockets for business cards and a cell phone. It is as beautiful as it is inherently usable.
Leather Backpack
Sep 20 2014
Sawyer noted

Aldwych Sofa

A Victorian era, arched-back sofa upholstered in tufted leather with distinctive sloping and extended arms sits atop turned castor legs.
Aldwych Sofa
Sep 16 2014
Knightsbridge noted

Merola Unlined Tobacco Peccary Gloves

Unlined Peccary Gloves are considered the 'prince of gloves' by the Italians for their incredible comfort and subtle texture.
Merola Unlined Tobacco Peccary Gloves
Jul 31 2014
Wodehouse noted

Camapanha Sofa

Inspired by Campaign and Brazilian Mid-Century Modern design, this handsome sofa is the ultimate in comfort.
Camapanha Sofa
Jun 04 2014
elicierto noted

Cycling Gauntlents

These fingerless gloves are made in England from the finest quality leather. Using our famous Lloyds Building cloth they are pleated for easy fit and have reflective material on the knuckle patches. Longer along the wrist and secured in place with special Dashing Tweeds buttons made in Birmingham.
Cycling Gauntlents
Jun 03 2014
Knightsbridge noted

Wholecuts in tan

A genuine wholecut shoe is a thing of beauty, and the Herring Chaucer is just that. The pinnacle of shoe making, this whole cut features fine calf leather, full leather lining and a Goodyear Welted sole. Now on the new 619 last for a contemporary feel. Perhaps the most difficult shoe to make each one needs to be made from one perfect piece of unblemished leather. A scratch or miss cut during the making and the shoe and it has to be discarded. Men of the whole-cut persuasion don?t accept second best.
Wholecuts in tan
May 23 2014
Knightsbridge noted

Bronze Armoire

_Leather fronts with bronze drawer pulls
_Distressed blackened bronze exterior
_Black walnut interior
_Plinth base
Bronze Armoire
May 21 2014
Charlie noted

Tacco Coin Case

_Handmade on wooden form
_Hand painted vegetable Tanned 'Cuoio' leather
_No seams and no visible construction lines
_Folding Lid
_Measurements: 6.7 x 6.7 x 2.2cm
Tacco Coin Case
May 20 2014
Apr 22 2014
Mar 25 2014
elicierto noted

Holland & Holland Cartridge Bag

These hand made leather cartridge bags are made from robust bridle hide leather designed to cope with the rigours of the shooting field.
Holland & Holland Cartridge Bag
Mar 13 2014
Wodehouse noted

Bronze Armoire

_Leather fronts with bronze drawer pulls
_Distressed blackened bronze exterior
_Black walnut interior
_Plinth base
Bronze Armoire
Mar 04 2014
Knightsbridge noted

Woolton Oxfords with Piped Square Toe

This elegant model features stitched beading on the top of the upper, turned-and-stitched detailing on the vamp, three edge finishes and a new rubber insert.
Woolton Oxfords with Piped Square Toe
Mar 01 2014
Feb 27 2014
Wodehouse noted

Aldwych Sofa

A Victorian era, arched-back sofa upholstered in tufted leather with distinctive sloping and extended arms sits atop turned castor legs.
Aldwych Sofa
Feb 02 2014
elicierto noted

Tacco Coin Case

_Handmade on wooden form
_Hand painted vegetable Tanned 'Cuoio' leather _No seams and no visible construction lines
_Folding Lid
_Measurements: 6.7 x 6.7 x 2.2cm
Tacco Coin Case
Jan 20 2014
elicierto noted

Leather Coin Case

Gentlemen's large leather coin case embossed with joint collaborative logo on base.
_100% leather
_Made in Italy
_ Dimensions 7cm x 7cm x 2.2cm
Leather Coin Case
Dec 18 2013
elicierto noted

Twinstitch Glove by John Lobb

The Twinstitch glove is cut in one piece and joined together using a piqué stitch. The lack of side seams means the glove has the most elegant of silhouettes.
Twinstitch Glove by John Lobb
Sep 25 2013
elicierto noted

Slip Lead Round Hand Plaited Leather

Hand plaited slip lead made by an artisan craftsman in the West Country from oak bark leather produced by the only tannery in Britain still using this ancient process. Brass ring.
Slip Lead Round Hand Plaited Leather
Sep 05 2013
elicierto noted

Wholecuts in tan

A genuine wholecut shoe is a thing of beauty, and the Herring Chaucer is just that. The pinnacle of shoe making, this whole cut features fine calf leather, full leather lining and a Goodyear Welted sole. Now on the new 619 last for a contemporary feel.

Perhaps the most difficult shoe to make each one needs to be made from one perfect piece of unblemished leather. A scratch or miss cut during the making and the shoe and it has to be discarded. Men of the whole-cut persuasion don?t accept second best.
Wholecuts in tan

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